15. Naples: gritty, grungy, and very very appealing

30 July, 2026

We wake up to the news that Mt Etna, which we climbed two days ago, has blown its top. Mt Etna is meant to be the oozing lava type volcano that rarely erupts, but judging from the photos on the news, it has turned into a Stromboli-type fireworks volcano. That's a bit exciting, but thank goodness it happened today and not two days ago.

Back to today's excursion! Today is our last real day of our cruise because tomorrow, we will disembark this ship in Civitavecchia ahead of our tiny Roman adventure. So, we must make the most of our day in Naples. We wake up to another sunny and very warm day but the day is not like yesterday's oppressive awful heat.

The last time I was in Naples was New Year's Eve, 31 December 1977. We arrived in the late afternoon as the winter's light was fading and Naples had a festive air about it as it prepared for the new year. As we drove along the main streets looking for accommodation, young kids were celebrating prematurely by lighting handfuls of penny crackers, which were let off in the middle of the road. We withdrew from the city as fast as possible, ending up near Mt Vesuvius. We didn't make it back to Naples back then.

So, I am looking forward to our panoramic tour of the city by bus and to see the city in the daylight.

As we leave the busy port where taxis are parked so close together they are practically touching one another, my first impression is that little has changed since 1977. But why would it? Naples is one of the oldest continuously-inhabited urban areas in the world. Like so many historic places we have visited during this trip, the Greeks settled here in the 8th century BC, before the usual waves of invasion that happened over the centuries in this part of the world.

A tour guide is handy in explaining the history of the city from its earliest founding to its role in World War II, to its current position as the centre of culture, cuisine, and education. This is, of course, where pizza was allegedly invented. It must be true because in December 2017, the pizza Napoletana was inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

It was the most-bombed city in Italy during World War II, was the centre of organised crime, had a problem with illegal waste disposal, and currently has high unemployment. Despite these challenges, when we slightly scratch below the surface of the grit and grunge, we find a city with a huge heart.

The bus stops on Posillipo Hill, and although it is slightly hazy this morning, Mt Vesuvius can be clearly seen on the horizon. Our guide takes photos of us with the great mountain in the background although the sun is in the wrong position and we are only shadows in front of the magnificent backdrop. Getting perfect light for photos is not on the agenda this morning. We travel to a promenade along the yacht marina where the bus stops and we alight, cross the road, and select from a huge range of gelato for a snack. I think one could easily live in Italy for a year and still not be able to try all the gelato flavours on offer. Even Tom deviates from his usual choice of vanilla to try flavours that include nuts and caramel.

Reluctantly we reboard the bus and head towards the city for a walking tour and free time. It's easy to see the amount of restoration work that has been done and is still being done here as we walk to the Piazza del Plebiscito, the main square in Naples and the location of the magnificent church of San Francesco di Paola. It is here that we are given free time to explore the streets of Naples. We wander through some side streets before deciding to enter what appears to be a large department store. What we find is remarkable Galleria Umberto I, a shopping space dominated by a wide walkways, up market stores, and a magnificent glass dome. Clearly restored in more recent years, this is a beautiful shopping centre that would rival the one in Milan for its elegance and wide open space. I wish we had more time to explore before having to return to the bus.

Naples may be gritty and grungy on the outside, but the UNESCO Historical Centre of the city is a wonder to behold and only a short walk from the pier where our ship is currently berthed.

When we were in Naples in 1977, it was edgy, the centre of crime, and perhaps a little dangerous for visitors. Today, Naples may be still a little edgy and grungy but it feels safe. It doesn't take much to find the real Neapolitan heart and we love what we find here.

It is time to pack our cases before leaving them outside our cabin door this evening ahead of a busy morning tomorrow. While we sleep tonight, the Silversea Silver Muse sails towards Civitavecchia, our final destination.

We have thoroughly enjoyed our cruise from Venice via Croatia and Sicily to Rome with all the little places between. It has been a very busy and somewhat exhausting cruise and we have loved every minute of our time aboard.