3. Stresa: Slightly Touristy and utterly charming

14 July 2026

After a leisurely breakfast at the aptly-named Splendid Hotel, we stroll into the village of Baveno. The neon display on the pharmacy informs us that it is already 33C, so we take it slowly. The first point of call is a store to buy a hat because Tom left his at home. No matter, because he did get himself a jaunty hat, which will keep the sun at bay.

We wander through the narrow passageways, where there are plenty of nooks and crannies that deserve further exploration.

But we decide to travel a little further afield today and because ferries are the normal means of transport for both tourists and locals, we buy a return ticket to Stresa. There are many people holding insulated bags filled with plump fresh nectarines, which make my mouth water. I promise myself that we will stop to buy some on our way back to the hotel this afternoon.

The ferry is quite crowded and I find a seat in the open area on the second deck. The ferry moves from the pier and quickly heads towards Isola Superiore, which the locals call Isola dei Pescatori. The tiny island is only 375 metres long and 100 metres wide, and unlike the other two Borromean Islands inside Lake Maggiore, has a permanent population of 25 people. I guess that the people carrying their groceries from Baveno actually live on Isola dei Pescatori. Buildings are clustered together with a church tower is the dominant feature. New passengers alight and we are soon on our way towards Isola Bella, another one of the Borromean Islands.

Larger than Isola dei Pescatori, Bella is 320 metres long and 400 metres wide. The main feature of this island is its beautiful Italianate garden that sits on one end of the island, the end that is visible from Stresa. At the other end of Isola Bella is a large palace and between the two features is a fishing village that is mostly made up of restaurants and cafes. As much as the garden is tempting to explore, it is perhaps a little too hot to be climbing endless sets of staircases. Also, our cheap ferry ticket specifically denies us entry to the Borromean Islands.

Before long, we are on our 400-metre ride to our destination, Stresa, a town not too far south of Baveno.

Stresa is a noted resort town and waterfront, architecture, and shaded parks makes it not only walkable, but enticing. Several high-end stores along the promenade display leather handbags and clothing, although I am a little alarmed that one store is now displaying their early winter stock on this extremely hot day.

Coffee is always welcome and we indulge in cappuccinos in Cafe Savoy before exploring the narrow laneways, which are filled with a wonderful array of food, herbs and spices, wines, olives, arranged as we would never see in Australia, not even in our extensive Italian delis. Small bags of mixed herbs and spices that are exactly taste-balanced to produce hot arrabiata sauces or green herbs crushed and mixed to be later crusted onto meats like lamb. I am tempted to buy some but their packaging may not last the distance, and I certainly do not need Australian Border Control to be picking stray herbs out of my clothes upon my return. We did find a product that we did buy, one that may not make it home either because we will probably drink the contents of the lemon-shaped Limoncello bottle.

We have to meet our fellow travellers later at the hotel and we arrive at the pier in time to catch our 3:45 PM ferry back to Baveno via the two islands.

Having some time to take a relaxing view of the places of interest on Lake Maggiore is a bonus. Although we could take a tour that would drive us through a number of the villages along the shores, I am happy with finding our own way around and mingling with the locals without having a stop watch on us.

We have just one more day to explore. I wonder where we will get to next!