9. Split: Castles, Cathedrals, Palaces, and Heat

23 July 2026

One thing about travelling in general and this trip in particular is that I am absolutely forced to get up early each day ahead of our pre-booked tours. Today, after docking in the Croatian city of Split, we quickly find our tour bus and wait for the remaining passengers to join us.

We have selected a tour that will bring us out of Split to the UNESCO historic town of Trogir, an ancient walled city, which was first settled by the Greeks around the 3rd century.

Trogir’s old city is located on an island accessed by a small bridge. We enter the old city, its white stone buildings constructed of local limestone, which is readily available from the nearby mountains. As we stroll down the polished stone streets, we notice a distinct blend of Romanesque, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture, which is very well preserved. However, the reason Trogir has gained UNESCO listing is due to its preserved Venetian architecture; the distinctive buildings that feature three ornate arched windows separated by columns, a columned balcony and decorative features above the front entrance on the ground floor. Some of these buildings are three or four storeys high. The stone is softened by clumps of caper plants that grow from cracks in the stone. No need of soil, these plants tumble down from balconies or anywhere they gain a foothold. Not only are they pretty to see, but they also provide flavoursome balls of deliciousness if you like to eat capers, which feature in the local cuisine.

Many buildings feature green or white shutters, most of which are closed today due to the heat. Presumably the rooms are quite dark and cool during even this early morning heat. Like yesterday, I quickly become confused over the waves of invasion and conquests of these towns that occurred over the course of history, and it appears that Trogir has been conquered by everyone from near and from far. But despite its history, Trogir is the best-preserved Romanesque-Gothic complex not only in the Adriatic, but in all of central Europe. There are 10 churches within the city walls, and we visit the Catholic Cathedral of St Lawrence.

Construction of the cathedral was started in 1213, and it was built over several centuries until until its completion in the 17th century. My favourite part of it is the gateway. Most of it was carved by Croatian sculptor Master Radovan, who, along with his pupils and followers, completed the work in 1240. As well as the usual saints and apostles, the doorway features scenes of work done during the seasons, exotic animals and legendary creatures as well as Adam and Eve.

With time to wander around this beautifully-preserved city, we marvel at the workmanship of the ancient artisans. I would hate to be here on a wet day because the polished stones beneath my feet could become very slippery.

We walk back over the little bridge to meet the bus, which takes us along the same road along the picturesque coastline to the city of Split, where we visit the old town.

Split is the second-largest city in Croatia with a population of about 160,000.

Like Trogir, Split was first settled by Greeks. However, in 293, the Roman Emperor Diocletian began building a heavily fortified palace facing the sea. Like the other fortified cities we have visited, Split was sacked, conquered, sacked and conquered by all and sundry over the centuries and the buildings within the city walls lay testament to those invasions with the various building styles within.

Our tour guide spews facts and figures, dates and historical eras. I guess there is no simple way to encapsulate such a long and complex history. I can, however, appreciate the work that has gone into the buildings here even if I don’t quite understand the timeline of the history. Split Old Town is also a UNESCO historical site. Although Split did not endure the same amount of damage as other Croatian cities during the 1991 war, it was badly affected economically during both the war and COVID 20, as was the world. I guess it is harder to regain its losses when COVID came along so close after the end of the war and the splitting of Croatia from the rest of the Slavic countries. Split is also the gateway to almost five million cruise passengers each year, of which we are two.

Before the tour ends back at the ship, we advise our guide that we will stay in the old town to explore further. Taking some time out to buy coffee and a sandwich eaten under the shade of a large umbrella, we enjoy the ambience of the city and the nice food. Slipping in and out of the many shops that occupy the ground floors of the ancient buildings here, we can appreciate the history and the struggle of the Croatian people. Before we leave the old town, we visit St Dominus, the Catholic Cathedral, which had been consecrated at the beginning of the 7th century and is regarded as the oldest Catholic Cathedral in the world.

The Mediterranean heat, which we have experienced since our arrival over 10 days ago, sits at a constant 33C. It’s time to return to the ship before the flurry of passengers rushing at the last minute before departure. Time for a rest and to enjoy some of the pampering on board.