Discovering the Majestic Beauty of Mt Fuji

My first glimpse of Mount Fuji is through the window of a very fast train, and I am left breathless. It is exactly as I imagined it to be and with the added brilliant blue sky, is unexpectedly clear. An active volcano, it last erupted in 1707-1708, when the massive scar, the Hoei crater on the southeast side formed. Although the best viewing days are between November and February, today’s clear day provides excellent visibility despite the presence of clouds near both the summit and the Hoei crater.

We alight from the train in Mishima, and our arrival is marred by a nasty accident on the downward escalator, which involves two of our tour members. Despite this hiccup, we quickly join our specific coaches, and we are soon driving through town with our guide for the next three days, Mr Hiro. From the left side of the bus, where we are luckily sitting, I am rewarded with almost uninterrupted views of the snow-capped Mt Fuji, which is sacred to all Japanese. This white snow contrasted with the azure sky is spectacular, and Mr Hiro assures us that we are lucky to have such a clear view of the mountain.

Mt Fuji was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Site list in 2013 not because of its physical status as a landmark, but as a cultural site because it has inspired artists and poets and has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries. It is part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, which includes the Mount Fuji, Fuji Five Lakes, Hakone, and the Izu Peninsula and islands. Altogether, the national park is 1,227 square kilometres in size and is one of four national parks in Japan.

We drive for several kilometres through towns and bushland eventually arriving at the Fujisan World Heritage Centre, a visitor centre that explains the various features of the national park and a video is played, which provides information about the area. The observation deck provides a perfect setting for taking photos in front of the mountain. Continuing the drive, we stop at a lake, where we are able to get uninterrupted views of Mt Fuji, and I lament that the cherry blossom is not yet blooming here as one of the iconic views of the mountain is one with the cherry blossom in the foreground. I take the photo with the bare branches, and you will just have to use your imagination to see cherry blossoms.

As we head towards the spa town of Hakone where we will spend the night in a traditional Japanese onsen hotel, or mineral springs bath house, Mr Hiro advises us on the etiquette of using the public bath and points out that those with tattoos may not use it at all. Although we decide not to use the public bath ourselves, the experience of staying at the hotel is memorable. It is very busy with both day visitors and those staying overnight, and we are surprised to see many people have changed out of their day clothes and are wearing kimonos and socks. We are all wearing socks because all shoes must be removed prior to entering the hotel. We quickly find our room and once we slide the rattan window open, are delighted to see a waterfall outside; its soothing sounds are what lulls us to sleep later. Despite the fairly basic accommodation, it is comfortable, and the bathroom is almost as large as the sleeping quarters. The included dinner is a buffet of traditional Japanese and some popular western dishes as well. Although I do not eat the raw items, I do enjoy the cooked Japanese cuisine.

After breakfast I am excited to see several trees that appear to have bloomed overnight, Perhaps they had already blossomed, but I was too intent on walking down the steep hill to the spa hotel to notice. I also notice that there is a strong breeze this morning, which appears to have gathered speed overnight.

Disappointment greets us as we enter the bus. Mr Hiro advises us that today’s activities of a cruise on one of the five lakes and the Hakone Ropeway cable car ride to Owakudani Station is cancelled, robbing us of the opportunity of seeing Mt Fuji from the lake and from a cable car capsule one last time before we drive to Tokyo. As compensation, our driver takes us through the heavily-forested hills, which are filled with trees yet to burst into leaf and the evergreen pine and cypress trees. My overall impression of the forest is a little sad because in its current post-winter state, parts look dead, In another couple of weeks, or better still, in Autumn, this scenery would be an absolutely stunning. As the bus slows on the sharp curves as we drive up into higher altitudes, I notice that where our temperate rainforests would have a covering of fern at ground level, these are covered in short bamboo. I wonder whether this variety grows taller or whether it remains compact and clinging to the ground. I wish I had a book on the local flora.

We drive out of the forest as we pass the tree line, coming into barren stony terrain. Yellow stains appear where steam trickles out of the ground and I believe we have reached the Owakudani volcanic mountain with its rotten-egg stinky vents. The bus parks and we are asked to return in about an hour’s time. I step out of the bus and am almost blown completely off my feet. If I had doubted Mr Hiro’s cancellation of today’s activities back in Hakone, I assure you that it was well warranted. Anyone taking a ride today would have a death wish. I braved the wind and the biting cold to again take some last photos of the mountain. Where yesterday, the conditions were near to perfect, and although it is still clear today, there is a certain amount of haze which softens the stark outline of the mountain. Looking through the viewfinder of the camera, I see nothing, so taking pot-luck, I snap away at the mountain and hope that when I check my pictures later, I have actually captured something of the essence of my view of the mountain.

As we head towards the bustling city of Tokyo, I now understand the reason why Mt Fuji is so much loved, so sacred. Its presence on the horizon follows you until it is finally out of sight, I have been captivated, snapping numerous photos both with my phone and my camera because each time I look at it, I see something different. Disappointment of the activities missed aside, I would not exchange the past two days for anything.

As a second consolation prize, we visit another palace, which although interesting, is poor in comparison to the mountain. At the end of the day, my fitness app proudly tells me I have climbed 17 sets of stairs. My body tells me it missed a few, but who is complaining?