Tokyo: Ancient whispers Hidden in a Modern Landscape

We arrive in at the Grand Nikko Hotel in Tokyo in the late afternoon and before leaving the bus, Mr Hiro advises that there are many restaurants in the shopping centre just across from the hotel.

We meet Robert and Rita and together we explore the shopping centre and quickly find a restaurant; one of several on offer. It is just outside this building that we discover the replica Statue of Liberty, which stands in front of the Rainbow Bridge. Tokyo’s Statue of Liberty was erected in 1998 as a temporary tribute to Japan’s relationship with France. It has become such a popular attraction that it is now a permanent fixture here. We have just one full day left, and Mr Hiro will be collecting us in the morning for our tour of Tokyo.

I could bore with a blow-by-blow description of our eight hour tour of Tokyo, but I won’t do that to you. Instead, I would like to share with you the impressions of Tokyo I have as we buzz past important features of the city.

Tokyo is one of the most populous urban areas in the world with a population of about 41 million people living in both the city and metropolitan areas. Somehow there is a perfect balance of green space and high rise buildings, ancient temples and shrines, and modern innovative skyscrapers.

When we visit both the Kaminari Mon Buddhist temple first built in 941 AD and the 1915 Meji Shrine I get the impression that they are the original buildings, but they are not. Instead, I read with fascination that both buildings had been razed by fire or by air raids in 1945. Together with the Imperial Palace, which was also severely damaged by allied bombing, these iconic buildings and others have been meticulously rebuilt using the traditional materials and styles since the end of the war.

When we visit the Meji Shrine, we walk about one kilometre through dense native forest, or so it seems. I’m surprised to learn that the evergreen forest, which covers almost 70 hectares is not native to Tokyo at all. Its 120,000 trees of 365 different species, which had been donated to the shrine complex by people from all over Japan, had been planted only about 100 years ago. Not an arboretum or a botanical garden, this bushland setting seems far removed from the city that exists on its perimeter. It’s green space surrounding the path into the shrine provides a sense of peace and tranquillity without being contrived.

I am fascinated by Tokyo’s parks, especially the Hamu Rikyu Garden, where a three-hundred-year-old black pine tree is located. The pine tree in Japanese culture, represents strength and longevity and features prominently in Japanese art. This tree has not only achieved both, and with the many timber props that have been placed to support the weight of the branches, I am sure this monstrous tree will live for many centuries to come.

Although only single cherry trees have blossomed so far, and we will not be lucky enough to experience the full effect of the venerated cherry blossom season, I am more than delighted to take note of odd single blooms that have sprouted ahead of the others. Very soon these individual flowers will be lost amongst the massed blossoms.

The ride on the river by boat provides a completely different perspective of Tokyo, and here we are treated to the sites of riverside apartment blocks and other modern buildings. Being on the water is a relaxing way to view the city, but before long we are herded back to the bus, which has magically appeared with the help of Mr Suzuki, today's driver.

When my father’s battalion was transferred to Tokyo from Kure and Hiroshima in 1946, his main role was to guard the Imperial Palace. On the night of 25 May 1945, as most structures of the Imperial Palace complex were destroyed by allied bombing, Emperor Hirohito had been safely ensconced in an underground air-raid shelter on the palace grounds. The palace itself was rebuilt between 1964 and 1968, and is today, a modern residence more suited to post-war living standards for a royal family. Many buildings, such as the towers I see from the road had been rebuilt in traditional Japanese style. I’m disappointed that we only drive past the Imperial Palace, as I would have liked an opportunity to join the throngs of people who are enjoying the unseasonably warm day on the public forecourt. I am, however, lucky that I am sitting on the right side of the bus, so I take a couple of quick snaps as the bus zooms past.

Despite its frenetic pace to see as much as possible in the shortest time possible, our overview of the city of Tokyo is excellent and Mr Hiro has proven to be the perfect guide. I am now sorry that we don’t have a few more days up our sleeves to further explore, especially when we have a railway station just across from the hotel. I would have liked to explore the Ginza streets by foot, visit the Imperial Palace, and have more time to absorb the atmosphere of the city. But we only have until about 3pm tomorrow to explore the area surrounding the hotel in the light of day and to fit in some last-minute shopping.

Tokyo is a surprise. It’s not the highly industrialised city that I expect. Instead we find a city that is spotlessly clean, devoid of graffiti, safe, welcoming, and highly efficient.

And I cannot wait to come back.