Lost in a Bamboo Fairytale

When we moved into our house in 1988, there was a bamboo forest in the backyard that literally took years to eradicate. So, I am not too enthusiastic about, nor in a rush to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. But it’s part of the itinerary, and I would be churlish not to at least take a look at it.

What I expect and I what I see are two different things. We walk along a street filled with food stalls and souvenirs, vehicles, and many, many tourists. It is Sunday so there are wall-to-wall people, locals and tourists alike.

After about ten minutes trying to keep up with our tour guide, we eventually turn left away from the retail stores and stalls and are immediately plunged headlong into a tunnel of towering bamboo plants. As we walk further into the tunnel, the outside noise of the busy street behind us is muffled and disappears completely. We are surrounded by a wave of green; tall stalks of segmented dark green and way above me, narrow leaves reach for the open sky. Only once before have I been completely surrounded and dwarfed by similar scenery; the last time it was a swamp. But today, in spite of the crowds, the enormity or the sense of being in a sacred place has silenced the crowds. Suddenly there are no loud noises. People are whispering as they pose for photos in front of the slender stalks. Over on one side, I notice that someone has been through with a machete, removing dead stalks, which are naturally and very quickly being replaced by new plants.

In one corner, picture-perfectly placed, a human-powered rickshaw comes to a halt and photos are taken of its occupants sitting in the ancient vehicle whilst surrounded by a sea of green.

Despite my first reaction to visiting a lot of bamboo, I must admit that I am absolutely won over by this magnificent and peaceful place, revered for its qualities of uprightness and strength, which makes it a perfect natural material for many household items.

As we return to the hustle and bustle of the street, we call into a café for coffee before gathering the courage to try some of the sweet treats from the street vendors. Some multicoloured sticky rice balls and some syrup-covered treats arranged on sticks look appetising and we munch on them as we cross the bridge over the river.

Along the river there are local people enjoying the early season sunshine, hiring boats, embracing the coming Cherry Blossom season, and picnicking by the side of the river. Always aware of the time, we return to the bus in readiness for our next stop.